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BAKER DRIVETRAIN CURE FOR H-D PRIMARY NOISE

The Latest and the Greatest from the Baker Gang

Text and photos by Rogue
8/19/2015


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 If you have a 2007 or later Harley Big Twin you more than likely have had issues with a noise in your primary when you shut your engine off. This noise occurs when the factory compensator returns to its lowest position.
 
I had one replaced under warranty on my 2009 FLHTC and later had to replace it again with the Screaming Eagle Compensator, which was supposed to cure the problems but did not. I was getting noise again with the most recent compensator installed, when I got the opportunity to install one of the new BAKER 630-67K Compensators.
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
This compensator uses the tried and true pre 2007 cam lobe geometry with patent pending modifications to the motor shaft extension. The compensator sprocket has holes in it and the spring cup assembly has channels directing oil to the cam lobes, improving function, quieter operation, and extending durability over the stock factory design.
 
  
 
The kit includes an engine Extension Shaft, 34 Tooth Compensating Sprocket, Cam Slider, Spring Cup Assembly and a special 9/16-12 Hardened Hex Bolt.
 
 
 
  
 
 

 
 
Items not included include a new primary cover gasket and 45 ounces of Primary Lubricant in touring models or 40 ounces in Softail/Dyna models. Baker and I recommend SPECTRO Heavy Duty Primary Fluid.
 
 
 
 
I strongly recommend that you also have a service manual for your specific year and model motorcycle.
 
 

 
You will need a 9/16-12 Bottoming Tap, a 1/2 drive 1-1/2 socket, a #40 Torex or a 13/16 socket depending on which one is holding the compensator to the engine shaft, a 1/2-inch impact wrench, 1/2-drive torque wrench capable of at least 140-foot-pounds, primary drive locking tool, 3/8 drive torque wrench, propane torch, red Loctite and some other basic hand tools.
 
 

 
Start off by draining the primary fluid while removing the left saddlebag and side cover to get to the main fuse. Remove the seat and the battery ground cable.
On this motorcycle the left front floorboard and heel shifter have to be removed to get the outer primary cover off. Care should be taken when removing the primary cover as there will still be oil in it even after draining.
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
Using a propane torch heat the head of the Compensator bolt to soften the Loctite, this is done to make the bolt come out easier and reduce potential damage to the threads.
Remove the Compensator from the engine. In some cases you may have to loosen or remove the clutch hub nut. If so follow instructions in shop manual.
 
 

 
  
 
Using the 9/16-12 tap clean the threads of the engine shaft and followed up with washing it out with brake clean and air. This is important. In order to reach the correct torque when assembling the threads must be clean.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

  
Using primary fluid lubricate the motor extension, sprocket bore, cam lobes and cam slider as each part is installed.
 
 
 
 

  
These parts assemble in the same sequence as the pre 2007 compensator and photos are in the BAKER instructions that come with the kit.
 
 

 
I strongly recommend you replace the stock factory automatic chain-adjuster at this time with the BAKER 177-67 Attitude Adjuster. As you see by the photos I already installed one sometime ago after I had an inner primary bearing go bad. I want to control how my primary chain is adjusted to extend the life of my drivetrain parts.
 
  
 
If you removed the clutch hub nut use red Loctite and torque to factory specifications.
With the clutch and sprocket installed and snugged, adjust the chain adjuster so chain is taut.
 
 
Use a straight edge and a dial caliper to measure from the gasket surface of the inner primary to the chain side plates. Measure as close to the sprocket as you can. Repeat the procedure near the clutch sprocket. If you are within .030 of chain alignment you are good to go. If not shim engine sprocket until chain is straight.
 
  
 
Loosen chain adjuster and remove engine sprocket hex bolt, apply red Loctite and reinstall. Using a primary drive locking tool torque the nut to 100-foot-pounds back-off half-a-turn and re-torque to 140-foot-pounds. Adjust primary chain to factory specifications.
 
  
 
Depending on what outer primary you have or if it has an oil deflector added you have to make sure these are removed. There are photos in the BAKER instructions addressing this.
 
Install the new primary gasket and outer cover. Use a torque wrench and tighten the bolts in the order shown in the shop manual.
 
  
 
I added 45 ounces of Spectro Heavy Duty Primary Chaincase Oil (Touring Models) to the primary.
 
After filling the primary reassemble the shifter parts.
I rode my bagger enough miles after this install to say I am very happy with how the new compensator works.
 
For more information go to the Baker Drivetrain website at http://bakerdrivetrain.com/ or phone to order 517-339-3835 or Toll Free 877-640- 2044 

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Reader Comments


Hi there , I'm curious about a noise when starting my 2008 FLHTCUI when the engine is warm/hot it looks like the starter engine is running over the starter sprocket and the noise is heartbreaking. Is this part of the Baker Comp. a cure to avoid this noise ?

Eric VanGilsdonk
Emmen, Drenthe, Netherlands
Sunday, January 7, 2018
Editor Response This from Mark at Baker Drivetrain

Hot start issues often time get blamed on the compensator and this is
>not the case. A weak compensator can exaggerate a starting issue but it
>is not the cause.
>
>Few things to check with a noisy hot start condition.
>
>Chain tension, the automatic chain tensioners from Harley have a bad
>habit of over tightening the chain. This will pull on the transmission
>main shaft putting the ring gear on an angle which makes it hard for
>the starter pinion gear to engage the ring gear.
>
>You will be able to see evidence of this if you look behind the ring
>gear on the face of the inner primary. From about 8:00-10:00 you will
>see a witness mark indicating that the chain is too tight and the ring
>gear is actually contacting the inner primary.
>
>Weak battery, bad starter clutch and timing can also effect the
>starting operation in any bike so check these as well.
>
>Thank you
>
>Mark

Rogue
Very informative and helpful

Bob Grieninger
laplata, MD
Wednesday, November 9, 2016
Editor Response Thanks. Let us know anytime you need anything.
--Bandit

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