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HELPING A FRIEND WITH HIS MOTORCYCLE

It Turned Out to Be a Little More Than We Expected.

photos and text by ROGUE
4/30/2018


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We were hanging out at a friend’s house partying, when Ric asked me if I could take a look at his 2008 Harley Electra Glide as it was using an excessive amount of oil. As the conversation continued I found out the motorcycle only had a little over 41,000 miles on it which led to more questions.

He lives in South Florida and said he had a shop in his area make it a big incher, and added they even redid it a second time and still had problems, so he did not want to go back there.

Even though the bike was running it came to me on a trailer. Once on the lift I removed the spark plugs and saw problems. They were confirmed by a compression test and then a leak down test.

 
 We moved from can you tell me what is wrong, to since it is here can you fix it? Yes, of course I could fix it. Well, with a little help from some friends of course. I contacted Wayne at Southern V-Twin in Melbourne to see if he had time to do the heads and cylinders. He was busy as he usually is but agreed to fit in the job.

I removed the top end from the motorcycle and found excessive play in the rods. The engine was going to need a complete teardown and rebuild. The engine was removed from the frame and delivered it to Southern V-Twin.

 
As it was disassembled for inspection and to see what parts were going to be needed things got worse, a lot of worn parts, and the connecting rods had gotten so hot at one time they had blue on them. Yes, like when you heat metal with a torch.

 
Okay, now for a new plan. Ric wanted a faster motorcycle, so it was suggested he pick a new out of the box fully assembled S&S engine. He ended up choosing the 111. Perfect Choice!

The S&S engine uses a different oil line system than the stock Harley so we also got their oil line kit.

While waiting for the new engine to arrive the oil pan was removed to clean it. Something that should always be done when a engine is being replaced or repaired.

This is just common sense, but some people fail to do this and usually end up with serious problems.

 
Well, more issues surfaced.  There were what looked like metal had been removed from the bottom of the oil pan and metal particles stuck to the pan even after being in the wash tank. I have no clue what or why, and I'm not going to go there. The fix was a new oil pan.

S&S Tool to drill holes
S&S Tool to drill holes

 
S&S has a special tool to make sure the holes are drilled in the proper spot which is actually slightly above the actual oil pan and I was lucky enough to borrow one. If the tool is not available the position of the holes can be done by some measuring.

After the holes were drilled and tapped the fittings and oil pan was installed.

 
The new engine was ready to install in the frame, the down tubes and lower frame rail were covered to protect them and the engine during the install. A jack was under the transmission and another under the engine. Once in place and both level the engine was slid on the dowel pins and using the bolts drawn together by carefully doing each one a little at a time and then finally torqued.

The front motor mount was connected and torqued.

JIMS TOOL 2013
JIMS TOOL 2013



JIMS TOOL 2140
JIMS TOOL 2140



The race on the transmission main shaft was replaced using JIMS Tool 2013 to remove old race and Tool 2140 to install new one.



The oil lines were connected, and prior to installing the inner primary cover the bearing in the cover was replaced.

 
The JIMS sleeve goes over the splines just to make sure the new seal is not damaged while installing the cover.


 
The motorcycle had an Ultra Cool Oil Cooler on it, and it was decided to re-use it after it was flushed with Spectro Cleaner. This is a fan assisted oil cooler with the fan part being operated by a thermal switch.

 
OOPs there is a difference in the Harley and S&S engine case and the position of the alignment cams. The S&S cam slots run horizontal. A phone call was made to Earl Sutton at Ultra Cool to discuss the issue. He informed me that others mounted the inner part of the adapter by modifying it. He further explained the alignment cams were for ease of line-up during installation and also to help keep it from moving if somewhere in the future an oil filter was over tightened, and did not want to come off and added pressure was needed.

Stock Adpter
Stock Adpter



Modified Adapter
Modified Adapter



My son Dale took the part to the machine shop and removed one of the tabs. Back in the garage some slight grinding also had to be done to the outside to clear a support rib on the engine. Once it fit in place a locking agent was put on the threaded adapter and it was torqued into place. After that was done the rest of the adapter went together like it was supposed to.



A new oil filter was installed and Spectro Platinum Heavy Duty Full Synthetic SAE 20w50 oil added to the engine.

Since the transmission had been drained when the oil pan was removed it was refilled at this time with Spectro Heavy Duty Platinum Full Synthetic SAE 75w140 transmission oil

Prior to installing the inner primary cover the bearing in the cover was replaced.

Broken Tooth on starter ring gear
Broken Tooth on starter ring gear



Worn Clutch Shell
Worn Clutch Shell



Worn Engine Shaft Extension
Worn Engine Shaft Extension

 
All of the old primary drive was trash, so everything was replaced, worn chain, broken tooth on the starter ring gear, wear to the hub and basket that would prohibit the clutch plates from moving freely and a very seriously worn compensator.

 
Because of the increase in engine size and power we decide to go with a Barnett Scorpion assembly.
 
The compensator and clutch assembly are first mounted without the chain and alignment of the sprockets are checked to insure the chain will run straight on final assembly.

 
The automatic chain adjuster was seriously worn and since they are not repairable needed to be replaced. The inner primary bearing indicatet the chain may have been too tight at one time it was replaced with a BAKER Manual Adjuster, so the chain could be adjusted cold to the proper 5/8 to 7/8 freeplay. This is done by rotating the sprockets and checking it more than one spot and tightening at the tightest spot if there is one.

 
All that was necessary to install the Barnett Scorpion was to remove the pressure plate, soak the fiber plates and slide it onto the mainshaft splines (note chain, compensator sprocket and chain adjuster are all put on at the same time). We used red thread locker on the left-hand thread nut used on the transmission mainshaft and torque it to 80 foot- pounds. The bolt for the engine sprocket had red thread locker added to it and the bolt torqued to 100 foot pounds, backed off one turn and re-torqued to 150 foot-pounds.

 
The clutch plates were installed followed by the pressure plate and springs, and torqueing the springs to 60 inch-pounds. The clutch was then adjusted and the outer primary cover installed and filled with 45 ounces of Spectro Heavy Duty Primary Chaincase Oil.



Polishing the Air Cleaner Cover
Polishing the Air Cleaner Cover



 
The intake, fuel injection, sensors and exhaust were installed and a new Thunder Max engine control module which was purchase from Zippers Performance. The reason I specified from Zippers is that when it arrived it already had been programed for this engine. Just ask for that to be done when ordering. When purchased elsewhere you need to program it yourself which is not hard, just time consuming so why not take advantage of that service.

 
Prior to installing the bracket for the horn mount a black Love Jugs Mighty Mite was installed and wired so that the rider could decide when to use it but that it would be shut off when the engine got turned off.

 
The fuel tank, battery connections and the motorcycle checked that everything was ready. The main fuse and fuel injection fuse were reinstalled. The sparkplugs were removed from the engine and wires attached to grounded spark plugs and the engine turned over with the starter. This was done a couple of times until the oil pressure light went out.

 
The spark plugs were reinstalled and the engine started right away and had good oil pressure. It ran for 1-minute while being checked for oil leaks. The engine was allowed to cool and then restarted and allowed to build up some heat. I used an Infrared Thermometer to monitor the cylinder temperature. When they reached 150 degrees I shut the engine off and let it cool. I did this a couple of more times just because I could and also used a shop fan. During this time I could hear the engine tune itself and soon had a nice smooth idle.

 
After installing the exhaust heat shields, floor boards, dash, seat side panels and saddlebags I got to go for a test ride. I was impressed with how the motorcycle ran and was being very careful not to go over 3000 RPM. I did a few short rides, until I reached 50 miles.

Since I had installed a new primary chain and Baker Drivetrain recommends checking the adjustment after 150 miles I did that and the engine and motorcycle now have 225 miles on it and is ready for Ric to finish the break in. He can also run it up a little more too about 4000 rpm for short periods of time. He should change the oil and filter at 500 miles and ride it normally but also avoid high load and high heat.

He should have 1000 miles on it in no time and then the fun really begins.




Sources:
 
Barnett Clutch 
 
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JIMS Machine
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Love Jugs
 
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Spectro Oils
 
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S&S Cycle 
 
 

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