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No More Bulky Gloves



I had a damaged handgrip on my 2009 Harley FLHT and decided, since I was going to change it, why not upgrade to a set of heated ones. I had been using layers of gloves for years and wasn't happy about how bulky they were or the feel I had with my levers and switches.

This was a chance to correct the glove problem and test heated grips. I bought an H-D kit number 56100034, which fits 2008 and later touring models and others. Because 2008 and 2009 models also required a jumper harness 70415-08A, Connector 72902-01BK and 2 terminal pins 72990-01 I got those as well.

The kit comes with what I consider easy-to-follow instructions, but they also suggest you have a shop manual for the bike you are working on. I did and though I have done many of the steps in the past I do use the manual for reference.

The next thing is to make sure you have the tools on hand necessary to do the job. That may vary slightly with what model you are working on.

Making sure the key fob was handy, I removed the left saddlebag, side cover and the main fuse to disable the battery.

After covering the gas tank and front fender with shop covers I rotated the front end to the left and removed the windshield and upper and lower faring screws. I then rotated the front end to the right and removed the other faring screws. I do it in this order because there is less of a chance of the faring falling when the screws are removed.

After removing the wiring and antenna from the radio using a long shank ball end socket I removed the four socket head screws holding the radio in place and carefully removed the radio.

I then removed the two screws (with flat washers) holding clutch lever bracket to the handlebar and then the upper and lower switch housing screws, followed by the grip.

After cleaning the handlebar, I inserted the left-side heated grip making sure the large part was to the bottom and into the lower switch housing. Sliding it into place I installed the top part of the housing and installed the screws snug but not tight while making sure the wiring was in the indent in the handlebar.

I then installed the clutch-lever bracket following the instruction in the shop manual. Pay attention to Torque Specifications. Using a T-27 Torex driver tighten the upper then the lower handlebar clamp screws to 60-80 inch pounds. Using a T-25 Torex driver tighten first the lower and then the upper switch housing screws to 35-45 inch pounds

Moving to the right side of the motorcycle I removed the seal cap in the end of the throttle twist grip sensor, undid the connector under the faring and attached a chase wire to it so that when I went to reinstall it, it would help me guide the wire through the handlebar.

CAUTION: Do NOT Remove or Install The Master Cylinder Assembly Before You Apply The Lever and Insert A 5/32 Thick Piece Of Material Between The Lever and Bracket.

Remove two screws and the master cylinder, remove upper and lower switch housing screws.

Gently remove the sensor from the handlebar until it and chase wire is all the way out. Insert a small flat blade screw driver in the green connector to release lock pin and separate.

Note black wire that has heat shrink on it. Remove heat shrink, strip black and white wires and install and solder terminal pins. Insert pins into new connector making sure they match color with the other side of connector.

Note Black Wire With Heat Shrink
Note Black Wire With Heat Shrink

Connector Installed
Connector Installed

Re-connect wires and chase wires and carefully pull through handlebars.

NOTE: Fit the index tabs on the twist grip sensor into the slots on the handlebar. One index tab and slot is smaller than the others to prevent improper assembly.

The new right-side heated throttle grip has a round plastic plug attached to it. Carefully pull the plug out of the grip through the outboard opening.

Slide the new grip over the handlebar and confirm the internal splines are engaged with those of the twist grip sensor.

Mount the grip in the lower switch-housing followed by the top, making sure not to pinch wires. Start the cover screws but do not fully tighten. Make sure wiring is in the indent in the handlebar.

Position the brake master cylinder housing assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly, engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the bottom of the master-cylinder housing.

Align the hole in the handlebar clamp with the hole in the master-cylinder housing, and start lower screw with flat washer. Adjust switch housing to comfort zone. Using a T-27 Torex driver tighten the upper and then the lower handlebar clamp screws to 60-80 inch pounds.

Using a T-25 Torex driver tighten first the lower and then the upper switch housing screws to 35-45 inch pounds.

Try the throttle at this time and make sure it operates freely and snaps back to idle.

The terminal sockets on the right twist-grip sensors are offset to one side and the pins can only be installed one way. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers grasp the plug and insert into the grip. Press the plastic plug firmly to verify pins are fully seated.

Install the end cap into the end of the throttle grip.
Using the jumper, I hooked grip wires to a power source at the cigarette lighter.

After re-installing the radio and hooking up and checking all the wiring I re-installed the main fuse and confirmed that everything worked before re-installing the fairing.

When installing the fairing I strongly suggest you use an inch-pounds torque wrench.

During my road test my hands were comfortable and warm. Prior to the ride the arthritis in my hand was bothering me and during the ride it got better. Could that be a bonus to this install?

This part can be purchased at any Harley-Davidson Dealer.


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